Torque (oz-in or kg-cm): This is the amount of force the servo applies at its output arm. The heavier your car or the more grip (traction) it produces, the more torque you’ll need to move the steering components effectively—especially with larger tires or in aggressive terrain. Speed (sec/60°): This measures how fast the servo can rotate 60 degrees. Faster servos provide more immediate steering response, which is crucial for road racing and technical offroad sections. However, speed alone isn’t enough—a servo may be quick, but without the torque to match, it won’t effectively move your wheels under load. Finding the right balance of speed and torque is key. Voltage Compatibility: Not all servos are designed to handle high-voltage systems. Some high-end models require a direct 7.4V or higher input to perform at peak levels. Voltage directly affects both speed and torque, so ensuring compatibility with your ESC or receiver is critical. (For example, our servos are rated for up to 8.4V, unlocking their full potential.)

Torque is the muscle of your servo—it determines how much load the servo can push or pull. The higher the torque, the more force it can apply, which is critical in: Off-road racing where resistance is high Rock crawling where tires are under constant strain Large-scale vehicles that are heavy and demand more power to move

Speed refers to how quickly the servo can turn a set number of degrees, usually measured as "seconds per 60 degrees." A faster servo gives you: Snappier steering inputs Better reaction on tight tracks Faster response during jumps and recoveries

1. Clean Your Servo Regularly After every few runs (especially offroad), wipe down your servo with a microfiber cloth. If you run in dusty or wet conditions, remove it and inspect for grime. Use a soft brush to get into the heat sink fins or between mounting tabs. 2. Tighten Mounting Hardware Vibrations from jumps or crashes can loosen mounting screws. Periodically check that everything is snug. Loose hardware can allow servo movement that affects steering alignment or leads to binding. 3. Monitor Heat Overheating is often a sign of overworked electronics. After a run, touch your servo case—if it’s too hot to hold, something's wrong. Reduce steering throw via EPA, or move to a higher torque servo that handles stress better. 4. Waterproofing Care try to keep liquids away from any of your electronics wet. Even if they are rated to handle getting wet its better to keep liquids away to ensure longevity of equipment. 5. Inspect Wiring and Connectors Frayed wires or cracked insulation can cause brownouts or glitching. Check your servo leads, especially where they bend. Replace or shorten cables as needed. 6. Re-lubricate Gears (Advanced Users) . We will rebuild your servo if you file a warranty claim - lifetime warranty on gears

1. Properly Center Your Servo Before installing the servo horn, power on your transmitter and receiver with the servo connected. This ensures the servo is in its neutral position. Align your horn so it sits perfectly centered—this prevents skewed steering and gives you predictable handling. 2. Set Your End Point Adjustments (EPA) Don’t let your servo overextend. Use EPA settings on your transmitter to limit how far your servo turns. This reduces stress on the servo motor and gears, extending its lifespan. Many racers damage their servos by pushing them beyond their mechanical limits. 3. Organize Your Wiring Loose wires not only look messy but can get caught in moving parts or interfere with suspension travel. Use zip ties or cable guides to keep wires tight and out of the way. Short, clean wire paths also reduce signal noise. 4. Balance Your Chassis Check your car’s weight distribution—especially left-to-right balance. An off-center chassis can cause your car to pull in one direction or behave unpredictably in turns. Add lead weights strategically if needed. 5. Perfect Your Gear Mesh Improper gear mesh can ruin your day. A mesh that’s too tight strains the drivetrain; too loose, and you risk stripping gears. Use the paper method: place a piece of paper between the pinion and spur, press them together, and then tighten the mount before removing the paper. Bonus Tip: Log your changes. Keep a tuning notebook so you can track what works in different conditions.